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Lenora - Nová Pec - Watterman's travelling

Published: 25.10.2007
The upper flow of the river Vltava, the river- section between Horní Vltavice-Lenora and Nová Pec, becomes always more popular and looked up sector not only of watermen but also of tourists making a pleasure of their walks through Šumava (Bohemian Forest) also by one-day lasting water-travelling.

This part of the river has obtained its favour especially for its unique scenery of local nature of  Šumava National Park . The river  is rich in a quiet  and  purity, it is rich in all, what is in the other Czech streams missing .

We have to draw your attention to the fact  that on the upper river-flow you do not find the refreshment places behind each river-bending, or a place, where you stop after half-an-hour drive in an restaurant  to drink a glass of beer sitting under sunshade. This kind of tourist possibilities Vltava does not offer, fortunately.

However, completely different situation you meet, going several kilometres  downwords along the stream, under the Lipno Dam. Vltava fulfills here, unfortunately, the most rigorous consumption requirements of actual water sports and the cultural activities, well, something other.

Anyway, who decides to undertake the navigation on route Lenora-Nová Pec-Vyšší Brod-Zlatá Koruna event. Boršov, will be very surprised, how much the river can transform.

It is not necessary to  blame those, who prefers  the  route from Vyšší Brod, but we do not dispute that the route from Lenora is more romantique and nearer to the heart of a waterman .

We try to  approach, by means of several photos, the river-atmosphere. We visit it regularly, every year, if  the limit of water- stand it allows, and we cannot comply.

We try to describe shortly the descending of Teplá Vltava (Warm Vltava) which falls into with its sister-tributary Studená Vltava (Cold Vltava). We travel together up to boats-landing place in Nová Pec, where we are in  an area of  Lipno Dam.

The photos above show  the start of our trip in a camping place of Lenora. There is no problem to pitch a camp here and you find always free space, even in a high season within summer months. You find here the loan-office of boats , managed by the branch of Inge Tour.

Early morning we go shopping and take a breakfast  to the community centre and  under the cockcrow we  are starting our water-trip.

The first section of our navigation – which is finished by refreshment in  Soumarský most (Beast of Burden Bridge) – is the ideal 10 kms long technique section , where the crew is in collussion with each other , as some river-benches have  in average several meters only. Provided iit is enough high water stand , the river is streaming relatively active. However, there are missing good water-circumstances in last years, so it is a problem.

We recommend you therefore to get acquintance with the actual water-situation – for instance on web sites of Šumava National Park , or infolines of  loan-offices , they  give you  the right information as soon as possible.

The whole upper sector  ( Lenora-Nová Pec ) is  passable – according to the  articles of Šumava National Park – since 1st May up to 31st October – between 8-18 hours.

The section Borová Lada-Lenora is possible to finish during spring thaw in a period  since 15th March-31st May between 8-18 hours  and at min. water-stand of 65 cm in Lenora ¨.

Difficulty-stage is WW I+, it is not suitable for beginners.

Under Soumarský most, which is the second  starting station, but also the lodging place after finishing of the first section from Lenora, the stream is  saturated with many small  tributaries.

You feel that the depth is growing slowly  under  paddles and you hear less and less  the toil of boat´s keel . The river is – even in short sections- turning and bending many times , creates the turnings. The waterman  has a feeling  that he is returning back to Lenor. If he had a  compass with , he would be surprised , that the river is really turning to the North, and you

would be shocked that you are approaching the Baltic Sea...

It is valid – especially for this part – what it is written on a poster, when leaving Soumarský most – that the  next refreshment point is situated in Nová Pec  in 2 h 45 min. later, and this is quite long time period. Unfortunately, we did not succeeded in it.  It  is true, that we came here to have a rest, and not to overcome the records .

Anyway, who is of the opinion that the route Soumarský most – Nová Pec  -i.e. 25 kms – is beyond his power – he has the possibility to stop and let  be lifted up near the bridge in Planá.

This is the only point to be risen from the water. The camping, refreshment and rising from the river in other places are strictly forbidden.

Unfortunately, we see that this  act  is not kept, and we found that  on many places, except confluence and railway-bridge, the people are sunburning  - this is a bad experience.

The railway bridge ( approx. 7 kms  downwords Soumarský most) is probably  nature-damage  but  belongs somehow to the most beautiful  quiet corners of Vltava in this section.

The experience is much more intensive in a moment when  the local  train  is hooting to watermen as a special greeting!

These photos seem to be a little  depressive . Anyway, the Vltava river looks like this in these autumn days. Who would like to try it  (or to wet a paddle ) , has the chance till 31st October!

The confluence of Teplá (Warm) and Studená (Cold) Vltava , the place of  permitted rest, comes,after several hours of activity, to be useful. Somebody  even  affirms that, if you  skilfully step astraddle into both streams, one is really colder.. The river starts to slow down  insignificantly, the waters of studená Vltava give a force and a peace.

Provided you drive Vltava for the first time, the navigation from confluence up to the bridge in Pěkná seems to be infinite, if it is not long distance. We do not mention those sportsmen who continue across „Lipno oil“ up to Nová Pec. Here it is, in comparison of  landing-place in Pěkná, several restaurants and kiosks  situated on banks.

Right – tributary of Studená Vltava, from left – in direction of this view – arrival of our vessel

Last kilometres – this does not see , who finishes his trip in Pěkná. Vltava would be gone down up to the end, this fact can understand real watermen only!

From a brooklet of several meters of length becomes  successively  an  active torrent, not  for longer time, however. As soon as we see the usual river sign-posts, the stream begins to be more calm. Lipno, our object, is approaching.

As you feel that the water stopped completely and you hear  childrens´ cry on banks and  bicycles as well as inline skates rustle behind the trees, you reach the holiday area in delta  of Vltava in Nová Pec . The banks are surrounded with tasteful buildings not  defacing the nature by essential  manner. Would you enjoy  the last minutes in a water and hope that „ no wind is blowing from the pier!“

By,By, Vltava, Ahoj, Lipno... the countryside as well as the water-level of a lake are opening suddenly, after a couple of minutes you see the heel of a bridge, behind you find the landing-place and this is a finish of our trip.

The view from the bridge to the mouth of the river. It is the most difficult part of the route for many tourists , especially when the wind is blowing „from the pier“. In such cases the several minutes´navigation  could last half an hour at all , or  eventually you cannot move from a spot or you even draw back. You need a firm will  and a little of fortune , you do not have many forces available.

So, we are at home. After 30-kms route is welcoming us a camping place in Nová Pec, round kiosk it is very busy traffic at any time and several restaurants, just mentioned above.

From the railway station  is leaving at 16,30 h the fast train „Šumava“ via Český Krumlov  and České Budějovice to Prague, operating in summer months only. The journey lasts 4 hours.

Nová Pec is also a magnific point for walks and  tourist trips, especially to the Plešné Lake, Třístoličník, Stožec and České Žleby.

This wandering you can do in one day, provided you have some watermen experience and know your limits. The ideal possibility is those: to arrive to Lenora one day before the mavigation is effected, pass the night here, and aerly morning to start the water trip.

We recommend you to reach to Soumarský most , after 9 kms drive and  to lodge, as the first water-section is quite interesting and enough  for one day route , or to pass further 25 kms long section without longer  refreshment stops . You can make it in 4 hours, using the touristic speed.

You can use a camping place or bed and breakfast lodges in Nová Pec and continue your trip across Šumava  by land and continue in train to Český Krumlov, České Budějovice and Prague.

The other possibility is as follows: would you let , together with a boat, to be transported back to Lenora  and continue to whatever place you wish.

Provided you plan your water-trip for weekend , you will be surprised, how this action could be  effected from Friday´s evening so that you catch on Sunday evening the latest news at home!

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