Excursion from Prague to Uzhgorod

A couple of words for the beginning…

Many people deny Ucraine. The reason is, first of all, presented by negative picture from TV reports. Especially one news made the imagine about local standard of living in incomprehensible and wrong form prejudices.

Nevertheless, Ucraine is a country which had, owing to its Soviet past, its start much more difficult, as it was in case of Czech Republic or Slovakia. However, Soviet legacy signed (let) enormous apathy of governing classes towards standard population. Money, which would flow to reconstruction and building of new roads or into public services, are put in pockets of greedy politics and corupted state officers. As Ucraine does its best to approach West Europe level, the situation is getting better slowly. Anyway, provided you do not take all various problems fully into consideration, so, Ucraine is a country which is worth to be known better and in more details.

How come to understanding with local population?

The official language is an Ucrainian language. Many people are of the opinion  that Russian and Ucrainian languages are identic. Frankly speaking, it is difficult to say which language is more similar to Czech language. I did not try to speak English, and I am of the opinion that this could cause much more trouble. Nevertheless, it is your big advantage, if you are able to speak Russian.

It is quite difficult to start to learn Ucrainian language in Czech environment, in comparison to visit course of Russian language, but do not worry, to speak Russian in Ucraine, it is no problem. It is true, you studied this language in past, and have forgotten partially, so you could buy some Czech. Russian phrase-book, in order to re-new your knowledge.

Uzhgorod – eastern enclave of the First Republic

Uzhgorod was capital of Carpathian Russia, most eastern town of Czechoslovakia. Originally, before Hungarians came here in 10th century, it was a Slavonic town. Nevertheless, at the end of 20th century, Hungarians formed 80% of all inhabitants. Between 1919-1938, when Uzhgorod was a capital of Carpathian Russia, this was a period of its greatest development. Since 1938, it became again a part of Hungary. However, when 2nd World  War was over, the Carpathian Russia, including capital Uzhgorod, was handed over to USSR.

Excursion from Prague-Central Railway Station to Uzhgorod

We exclude the possibility to take the plain (with regard to high prices and complicated transfer on spot) and have the choice to go by train, car or by bus. Each of chosen ways of transport has its advantages and disadvantages. Provided you prefer to travel with some rucksack only (containing your personal belongings, or small piece of luggage with souvenirs), the most comfortable way would be travelling by train to Slovakia, with subsequent change to bus. Would you calculate with a fact that the ticket of 2nd class with a place in sleeping waggon (from Prague to Humenné) will cost CZK 1100,- approx. The way takes 12 hours, and train´s departure is at 10 p.m. It is true that, when travelling in a night, you would not have quiet sleeping, probably owing to continuous rattle, but do not worry that you oversleep in the morning, Humenné is an end station, and a guard awakes you.

The town of Humenné has very few places of interest. You can see and visit Tesco department store (the only local monument which is worth to visit) in a distance of 300 m from railway station. Except of the fact that you can buy here some foodstuffs, you find here exchange office. If you did not changed money in advance at home, there is a chance to exchange your money to EUR or USD (in suitable quantity). Attention: exchange of Czech crowns in Uzhgorod is impossible, and exchange of Slovak crowns is disadvantageous.

When you buy your provisions, would you walk to bus or railway station and look for your next connection to the town of Michalovce. As far as the ticket-price is concerned, you would buy it for less then SKK 100,- Your transfer takes 30 minutes or 1 hour (it depends on fact, where bus or train stops). As soon as you reach bus and railway station in Michalovce, do not try to buy immediately your ticket with seat reservation (this must be bought couple of days in advance at least). You need to have good luck (bus probably will not be completely full), so, you succeed to buy a ticket for SKK 80,- (+ SKK 20,- for your luggage).

Provided you have got some information in advance, you will be very surprised that the way from Michalovce to Uzhgorod takes two hours (!), despite the fact that the distance between these two towns makes 40 kms approx.! However, in half way is to be found cross border point. This border point is famous for its especially long waiting time for customs and passport control procedures. And just this fact makes great problems for your travelling by car. Knowing this, you can watch with victory smile long queues of standing passenger cars. You find also, that in spite of super-modern Slovak custom-house (protecting entering into Schengen countries), the time completely stopped on this part of border. Queues of standing passenger cars - from both parts of border - give evidence that it will be very difficult to overcome this section. You can notice that the cars move  ahead a little each hour, so, you realize that you have made excellent choice in taking a bus (for SKK 80,- only). On the other hand, it seems to be absurd that the people are forced to spend here such much time, why? Nevertheless, the best thing is, not to think over about it!

After departure from Michalovce, you have to fill in small questionnaire (the officers did not forget to ask you for replies of detailed questions). You have to fill in the following items: name, surname, reason of your travelling to Ucraine (tourism), places you intend to stay and visit, passport No.etc. The bus driver would pass you this questionnaire, (if he forgets to do it by chance, do not hesitate to ask him for it, you are obliged to fulfill it, later you would complicate the cross-boarding).

When I stopped at border-crossing description, some other  useful information (this can be new experience for you): As mentioned before, travelling time takes two hours, whereas half of this time-period you spend on border-crossing. First of all, foreigners´ police comes, in order to proceed personal control (the passengers from Ucraine will be taken away their personal documents - passports). After first part of border procedure, would you prepare for Ucrainian part. At this moment, your personal documents will be taken away (do not forget to put fulfilled questionnaires in the passport!). I do not recommend to be so silly as one passenger, owner of USA-passport, to be found later, that he was of Ucrainian origin, (being of simple opinion that, as a citizen of most powerful country of the world, he does not need to fulfill some questionnairs). Anyway, do not be surprised a lot, if you receive a passport with a half of questionnaire only. This is necessary to be carefully kept, as you are obliged to give it to the officers while you return back and leave Ucraine. Not having it available, you could have troubles.

When rather exhausing cross-border controls are over, you finally entered Ucraine. Do not forget to set your watches one hour ahead. Nevertheless, you notice immediately, that you find in a different country. You can watch and follow not only passenger cars of old or unknown brands (Zhiguli, Moskwitch, Lada or other used cars) but you could be surprised to have the chance to watch latest models of sporting cars, left car-saloons shortly before. If you continue your way further to inland, it will seem to you, that the towns, not reconstructed and dirty, have much more green places, in comparison to our country.

As soon as you leave the bus, you probably wish to exchange your money. For that reason, exchange office in new building of Uzhgorod railway station could be an ideal point, you cannot miss it. Exchange rate moves between UAH 4,50 for 1USD, it means 1 UAH = 3 CZK approx.

If you start to calculate in similar way as me, you find that the prices are 30-50% cheaper as in Czech Republic. In past, this relation was more favourable, however, a consequent price-increase arrived to Ucraine, too. Attention, do not buy two litres of Coca-Cola for UAH 6,- but buy some soft-drink of local production, as ananas, for instance, it is cheap and much more better.

Provided you did not brought a lot of food supplies, you made good step, as you have more place for various Ucrainian or Russian refreshments, there is really big choice of such foodstuffs available. You certainly start to regret that on Czech market miss such excellent things. Anyway, why it is worth to mention it? Most of people like sweets very much, so I start with sweets. Would you be prepared on a fact that you will be attacked with enormous offer of bonbons, snacks, biscuits, etc. in many shops. And you find that Czech language has a poor word-expressions when a rich pallet of words, impossible for translation, is open in front of you. I could recommend a lot of foodstuffs, but as an example of all sweet delicacies. I can mention „ptachie moloko“ (birds´milk). Further, would you taste „khalva“ (it is available in Czech Republic, but it is too expensive). Here, you receive 1 kg, whereas in our country only two 30g pieces. By the way, prices of all bonbons or biscuits are mentioned in 1kg (they move mostly in range between UAH 10-20 per 1 kg). When you see a shop where the cakes are sold, do not hesitate in any case! Ask immediately for Kiew-cake, this is absolutely phantastic sweet! I can guarantee, that long time, after you eat it, you will lick off your fingers and mouth! It seems to be unbelievable that you can find so many excellent foods in one place, but it is so.

Provided you would like to taste something salt, would you try salted fish known as „taranka“ (it is not available in our country) or excellent red caviar, at price-level of UAH 35-40,- for 100/150 g. It would be wonderful, if you take advantage the situation and order real orange Ukrainian borstch, as a main meal.

Our western culture has its super- and hypermarkets, so the East has, on the other hand, its bazaars. They keep, (despite „western market culture“) its position. The bazar in Uzhgorod is placed quite distant from bus- and railway station. It is possible, of course, to walk there on foot, but, provided you would like to be sure and be aware you have lost your target, it is recommandable to take a bus. And here, we meet again an interesting phenomenon, which is worth to be introduced. If you are used (similarly as me) for excellent Prague and Czech /Slovak  public transport, here you will be surprised. There is no red stop - stand with arrival and departure time- tables. Here, you have to be acquainted with a fact only, that a bus passes the place. Which type and when, these are questions. The fact is, that buses pass here. And in direction bazaar: they are Nos. 9, 20 and 21, for sure. Nevertheless, you are recommended to ask for at first. The other characteristic sign of bus system is: buses of all kinds and sorts are in traffic. According to my own experience, you can expect microbuses of Mercedes or Rover  brands, bigger buses are exceptional, and buses travelling in Czech Republic, are not to be expected at all. Anyway, the system is functionning, and it is a main thing…

As local roads are not of the best quality and style of driving is, similarly as in Malta-island, rather peculiar, so, it could happen that the drive will be more madder as you would be used to. Naturally, the drive is not risky, but some weaker characters could be a little shocked, of course. Anyway, no panic, please! Following such situations, you do not see any accident, maybe, it could seem to be paradoxical. So, in such state of mind, 10-minutes´ drive to bazaar will be overcome easily. Nevertheless, do not forget to pay a driver while getting into the bus, your action will be followed by other passangers, especially in a case, you are foreigner.

However, stops-announcing in the bus are missing during a drive (instead of that, you can watch LCD -TV screen with advertisements), so, would you ask for in advance, where to get off. You notice that, in general, the people are more willing, in comparison to our country.

Provided the way by bus seems to be for you rather risky (it is true that your way could be finished on any other place, however, no at bazaar), you find always some taxidrivers, ready to take you there, it costs UAH 10,- at lest.

Bazaar

Entering bazaar area, you see immense scenery of  countless stands. You can admire the goods of all kinds and you will feel as in department store, in open air, but in not such clean situation Walking up and down, watching the stands, do not wonder if you see a pharmacy (with fix open time, by the way). Nevertheless, most of stands have its fix open time table (since  8 a.m. till 4 p.m.), so, you have to take this fact into consideration.

Many people doubt regarding the quality of goods, sold in bazaar. Some notes to this matter: As far as dressing is concerned, I myself bought such article once or twice (there were flannel trousers only, later some tricot O´Neill - bought in Slovakia five years ago, but let´s suppose that the sellers take it from the same sourceit is, to my surprise, always in perfect condition, whereas those four-belts flannel trousers disappeared). My cousin, accompanying me to Uzhgorod, in order to spend his money here, bought a set a la Adidas. It cost UAH 300,- and seemed to be of good quality. The time proves the reality if it is advantageous to buy cheap brand sport or non-sport dressing. In such case, would you insert on a safety and visit some of outlet-shops in Czech Republic. You probably buy more expensive goods, but there will not be necessary to effect 800 kms drive, owing to claim. Provided you will be defeated by temptation of low prices, and uncertain brands, you can present a message of your latest experience from this bazaar. Nevertheless, one never knows, it could happen, you buy shoes, using it for 10 years, whereas the other pair of shoes are in good condition for one season only.

Anyway, local bazaar has its magic, there are always crowds of people, and, if you are tired, you can take cool or warm at some type of refreshment, there are always available. It is not necessary to add, that you can eat and drink here at very favourable price-levels. Provided you prefer to get a lunch, do not forget to taste phantastic good meal known as „shashlik“. If you prefer some cold refreshment, do not forget to taste one of local ice-creams, all are excellent, in price level moving from UAH 1,50 up to UAH 3,-.

During your next walks, we are sure, you discover a lot of interesting but also useful products. Maybe, you hardly get beautiful painted pots, or tea-pots, at excellent prices. These are rather expensive (nice painted  tea-pot for UAH 200,-) but cheaper, and of the same quality at least,as in our country.

You can even watch the stands presenting such things as motorcycles, concrete - mix machines or furniture (it is not something special). It seems to be something marvellous for us, as many from us have the idea that on bazaars there are available the dressings or fruit with vegetable only. Here, you can find everything.

Moving pictures

During your walks, you can see stands with electronic goods, but this is not so interesting as stands offering DVD, CD and MC. We recommend you to buy some DVD films. There is a big choice available, and there are several films together on one disc. One tip – „Mister and Margarethe“ (it is really mastery made creation of Bulgakov´s life work - of five parts - all are placed in one disc), or other masterpiece of Rybakov - „Children from Arbat“ or other recommended work - such as „Moscow saga“.

To all lovers of war films, we can recommend the work „9th company“ (aimed at Soviet war in the 2nd World War), „Grozovye vorota“ (about war in Tchetchna), „Stravbat“ (serie concerning punishable banner during 2nd World War), or „Turkish Gambit“ (interesting work about Russian-Turkish war). Those film-lovers they prefer massacres, they can buy a film with a name „Purgatory“ (telling about Tchetchna war). The other interesting film is those describing siege of Leningrad or four-part serie of documents issued on the occasion of sixty anniversary of victory in 2nd World War, with a name „Great Victory“. Here, there is described praised heroism of Soviet soldiers as well as Soviet population, there is no doubt, but mention about battles without retreat possibilities is missing or a fact why Red Army had to be retreated from war beginning,  is missing, too, etc.

In spite of all of this small defects, there is very interesting to hear the memories of war-veterans and see these era materiale. All films, mentioned above, are new. Nevertheless, there will be no exception, if you find some films made in Societ era. Their aim, it is no illusion about, but some title could be some pleasant surprise. As far as the older films are concerned, there is to be noted  titles, such as „Captive of Caucasus“ or „Diamond Hand“.

On this occasion, there is necessary to note: would you avoid  the films of foreign production, especially of many Hollywood films. These are, however, spoken with unforgettable monotonous voice, or, with more voices, but in very artificial way.

The prices are different. They move from UAH 20,- up to UAH 50,- for one set. This costs, for instance, four-discs packet of documentary films describing Great Patriotic War.

Lovers of computer plays find also their targets. However, I do not have any experience, as far as buying of some play in bazaar is concerned. Anyway, the times are changing, and you can follow that sale of films as well as plays and music starts to get some level as well. Moreover, the purchase of PC plays seems to be, in comparison offer/price, quite advantageous. There is complete play set, including all its datadiscs in one packing. You can find here the titles of popular names - Company of Heroes, Collin McRae Rally, Dirt, Doom III, such as unknown home production. There are also sold Playstation plays, most often on PS2, titles on PS3 I have not seen here. If you wish to look for them, you have to visit specialized shops.

Music and spoken word

Music CD and cassettes are sold in the same stands as the films are to be offered. In the offer, there predominant Russian or Ucrainian singers, but you can find here also foreign musical groups. If you are interested in some Russian or Ucrainian singers, would you buy at first some hit sof Eastern evergreen (Alla Pugatchova) and follow the instruction of shop assistant. Musical CD cost UAH 20,- (it is not expensive price, in comparison with a fact, that one disc contains all songs of singer or group).

Provided you speak Russian or you have the intention to study Russian language, I recommend you, not to save the money in this case, and buy cassettes of CD with stories of humorist writer Mikchail Zadornov, and you will be very satisfied and pleased. He mostly makes jokes of Americans or Russians. Further good actors are - for instance Petrosjan or Maxim Galkhin. You pay the same sum as in case of music. The cassette is 50% cheaper.

 

Water and wodka

There was just a notice above about excellent Ucrainian and Russian soft drinks. The offer of lemonades, juices, mineral waters as well as alcohol drinks is really wide.

You have the choice of classical tastes - ananas, orange, grape, or even of some extraordinary excellent soft drinks, such as cream or peach taste. Provided you like it, you can receive even in 3 liter packing. Standard execution is 1,5 l packing, it costs UAH 2,50.

Alcohol spectrum is much wider as soft drinks offer. Provided you have the intention to buy a gift to some of your friends, you can try, for instance honey-wodka. The prices move UAH 30,- approx. for one bottle. Anyway, there is a wide choice of beers, too, however, I do not have any personal experience with this type of drinks. If you would like to taste it, it costs UAH 2,50.

Return way home

At your way home, you are obliged to present second part of questionnaire toUcrainian officials, and on Slovakian part of the border, to get off and let get your belongings for inspection. Please, do not be defeated by nervous disorder, as it happened to me. Each person can take with one liter of alcohol and carton of cigarettes free of charge. As far as the other goods are concerned, there are no limitations.

Travelling by car

Your way by car depends naturally on a fact, from which town you start. If you start from Prague, the shortest and quickiest way is to take Highway D1via Brno, Olomouc, Hranice, further continue across Rožnov pod Radhoštěm to crossborder Bumbálka/Makov. In Slovakia, you travel via Žilina up to the town of Poprad, (where you see High Tatra Mountains) and further continue via Prešov and Michalovce up to famous crossborder with Ucraine (Vyšne Nemecké). The way is nearly 900 kms long and takes 9-10 hours of drive.

If you wish to avoid  the adventurous - more than 7 hours lasting - waiting, would to try to arrive on very early morning (or during night, i.e. between 2 - 4 a.m.), everything could be effected in more smoothly way. Anyway, somebody puts into his passport the bank-note of UAH 5-10,- (as a small backshish), in order to speed up customs procedure. We wish to warn you, do not do such problematical operations, you could meet customs-officer, who understands your gentle gesture in different way, and your action could be badly terminated.

Provided you have to wait for customs clearance during a day, your situation does not seem too bad. Let´s think over truck-drivers, they are forced to wait here even for several days.

Anyway, the best solution is as follows: to park your car in some parking place in Michalovce and continue to border-crossing by bus. However, there is a disadvantage: last bus leaves Michalovce at 4 p.m.

Some words for conclusion …

Maybe, the way to Uzhgorod seems to be rather complicated and a little dangerous, you are right. Nevertheless, despite many exhausted troubles on the border, many Czechs and Slovaks undergo such procedures. No wonder, historical nucleus of Uzhgorod is marvellous and renovated. The town is placed in picturesque countryside of Carpathia. Moreover, many objects are of highest interest for you, especially sweets. In Czech Republic, you can buy excellent chocolate from Belgiím, but you find soon that these producers are not so inventive as those from Russia and Ucraine, they still wait for its discovery. Moreover, in waiting room of railway station you can follow singing performance of one wandering gypsy-woman. She continued in her singing message, despote repeated warning of police officer.

So, bon voyage!

Text/photo: Maxim Kucer