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China: Long Journey VI – Yinchuan II Tombs of Western Xia Dynasty Kings

Published: 29.6.2013
One of most popular tourist attractions of the Province of Ning-Sia are royal tombs about 35 kilometers from the center of Yinchuan. It is a landmark you just have to visit. We set out there soon after we get an accommodation. After while we found a bus heading to Shun Hing, literary “western Xia Square”.

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An hour later we get off the bus in the middle of nowhere. Soon we attained the knowledge that it won’t be anything unusual. Same as we were in the middle of steppe soon locals sieged us. One taxicab brought us to our destination. He even promised he will return for us if we call. Having doubts we noted his phone number. Around there were many other taxicabs waiting for naïve foreigners to pay price several times higher than that they would there ask from locals.

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Tombs of Western Xia Dynasty amazed us. The whole complex consists of nine emperor tombs and more than 250 other tombs covering the total area of 53 km². Western Xia was independent kingdom in the 13th century. In that time China wasn’t united country, actually there were three empires at once – the Chan dynasty Sung , an empire of nomads, Nu-Cehn Lia (Jin) andthe Tangut kingdom of Western Xia. This kingdom had its own speech and scripture as we found out after all. There are, however, many unsolved puzzles related to this and many scientists try to solve it since the 1970s when the complex was discovered.

A museum in the center of the complex attracted our attention as well. There figurines nad painted scenes from the Western Xia’s history, depicting everyday works, battles and more.

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The tombs left the best impression within us. They were built from bricks,. They resembled hay mounds and looming high with the monumental Helan Mountains in background. With awe we moved along and observed them until clouds above the mountains darkened and first flash lit the sky. When raining stopped it seemed we are alone in the park. All Chinese remained under roof, to feel sure and so we just wandered about tombs and around. We visited some abandoned places and imagined how they looked in the time of greatest glory of Western Xia dynasty.

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Text/photo: Hana Bašová



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From Bejing to TaZ Pekingu do Datong. From Datong to Hohhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia, our second stop on our way across China. We waited on the Datong train station, instant noodles (in Chinese their name is fang-pien-mien, „comfortable noodles“, a really convenient name), we held happily our tickets. There was jing-cuo written on them (“hard seats”).

China: Long Journey III - Datong
Published: 23.3.2013
A journey from Beijing to Datong was smooth, without complications. We arrived at the place few minutes to midnight and the city was unusuallay quiet and deserted. It almost seemed as some sort of furious storm swept through the city and wiped out everything alive. Even lamps were turned off. This made our orientation, if we can use this term for a situation when we had absolutely no clue...

China: A Long Journey V – Hohhot II
Published: 27.5.2013
When you set out to Hohhot, it is almost impossible to miss famous Mongolian steppes. There are plenty around Hohhot, we chose Si-la-mu-zhen. With our backpacks we got in a bus and two hours later the driver unloaded us in the middle of nowhere.


Related Photogallery

China: Yangshuo And Environs
Photo: Amy Challen a Jan Lidmaňský

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