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Galicia - Santiago de Compostela

Published: 10.11.2008
First place of interest, I am to write about, is Galicia. I spent here, as a student, one year, studying on local University (Universidade de Santiago de Compostela). Galicia country runs out, in many aspects, among other administration districts.

Character of this territory  has a big surprise for you. The nature differs a lot - with its green afforested countryside, cut with belts of green meadows - from remaining Spain regions. This nature difference is caused with a position of Galicia. The region is located in north-west part of Pyrenee Peninsula, so, it is most western part of Spain. On south, it is neighbouring with Portugal, from west and north, it is surrounded by Atlantic Ocean. And even the presence of ocean (or ocean streams, better to say) causes that here rains more than 300 days in a year. If you take into consideration that a year has 365 days, it is not favourable visit-card for Santiago, as far as classical target of summer tourist movement is concerned. Anyway, it is a pity. Since that time passed many years, and Galicia offers much more than transparent ocean and marvellous countryside, which is full of life, on contrary to rests of dry parts of Spain.  Galicia is bordered with numerous rivers, small lakes and waterfalls (these are rests of glacier formations). Together with the ocean, Galicia has very good conditions for fishing. And just in this branch - in fishing - Galicia plays one of most important roles in the world in this respect.

From administrative point of view, Galicia is divided into four regions (areas), named according to the greatest towns and administrative centres - La Coruna, Pontevedra (greatest town here is those of Vigo), Ourense and Lugo. The capital, with a seat of regional Parliament, is - in La Coruna province – the town of Santiago de Compostela , so, in town which does not belong to the greatest ones, it it is – within scope of  Galicia – number one, for its religious, cultural and historical importance.

Santiago de Compostela has 90 thousands of inhabitants, nevertheless, in the course of school year exercises, it has 120 thousands. Santiago is, first of all, students´ town. It is located here one of oldest  Universities in Spain, founded in 1507, connected with the activity of Alonse III. de Fonseca. Local university has quite good reputation not only within scope of Spain, but also in Europe, especially in branches, such as political sciences, law and medicine. As far as the students´ structure is concerned, you can meet wide field of students from abroad, not only from Europe, but also especially from South America.

The town is divided between old and new part (Zona vieja and Zona nueva). Old parts of town, historical nucleus, is dominated with Square Plaza Obradoira, which is, together with local cathedral one of most characteristic points of whole Galicia (its picture can be found on Euro-cent coins in Spain). In Plaza Obradoira, you find further local Town Hall and Hotel of Catholic Kings (Hotel de los Reyes Catolicos). In past, there was nothing else as colleges of local university. Specific sign of Santiago is its role, as if it were predestinated from its historical point of view.

Santiago is not only of students´ world, but also of national efforts endeavouring after the emancipation. These efforts are - within scope of political representation - as in university – characterised with its left orientation. This reality is especially made dependent upon economical situation not only of Galicia, but also of Santiago (it is, with its character historical administrative centre, however, not economical centre) - these are the towns of La Coruna and Vigo. These diferences are remarkable also in a stage, where local population (according to the areas) identify with competence to Galicia nationality.

To one of most attractive places and specific points of Santiago  belongs „Camina“ or Way. It is a Christian pilgrimage which makes from this town the third most important shrine of Catholic Church of the world (after Jeruzalem and Rome). So called St.James Way consists of pilgrimages from various places of Europe (except Spain, you can do it from Portugal or France). Nevertheless, most of pilgrims make it from a distance of 100 kms only (this is minimal distance, you have to cover it in maximal limit of four days). Afterthat, you receive a certificate, that your pilgrimage was effected. Anyway, it is very hard to comprehend the importance and sense of this wandering. In any case, the church ritual is missing, people of various age and with different access to the religion, church and God ,participate on this walking. First of all, it is a matter of certain knowledge, joined with meeting of people from many places not only of Europe, who walks the way together with you  There are characteristic signs for this pilgrimage, you find it along the whole route up to Santiago.

As far as sign is concerned, you can follow shell signs as „camini“ symbol, marking the distance to your target. Anyway, at present , there is a symbol for most of pilgrims cathedral of Santiago itself. In past, there was  Finestera ( this is a small village on coast of Atlantic Ocean). Here, on light house, standing on a peak of local cliff, the pilgrimage ended on this place. Now, except of final stone, with a number marking final kilometer, you can find old antenna tower, where many pilgrims let a part of their dress – as a sign of end of thir wandering. Except of end of „camini“ you can find on Finestera (according to Spaniards - the Portuguese are of different opinion - rivals of Spaniards as far as this primacy is concerned), the end of mainland part of European continent.

The way itself is very difficult. There are existing lodging places along the way, you pay quite low fee (valid for pilgrims only), you can be accommodated there, but their large numbers fluctuates according to areas. So, it happens that – on certain places your kilometres´ ration in hard hilly terrain makes even 40 kilometres. In spite of this, the first thing which follows, if you meet local person, is a question, whether you visited the Cathedral or whether you plan „camina“.

And now, we touch the last point, this is a social life in Santiago. In general, we can say that  the relation of town´s greatness to variety of social life, especially within semester, is probably greater as in Prague. In spite of this, it is a town, which is comparatively calm and safe. The walk through old small streets in historical nucleus in the night is, thanks to omnipresent police guards and friendly character of local inhabitants welcomed variegation of the evening. And if you have an inclination to visit some of many small pubs or tapas bars (there are bars where you receive to any alcoholic drink  a plate with local choice of specialities free of charge). There is any other possibility to visit one of many parks, such as Bonaval or Alameda. Each of them offers different sort of pleasantly spent time in the middle of green. Whereas Alameda starts with its garden architecture from colonial Spanish school (so, it is very similar to gardens in Madrid), Bonaval – situated in direct neighbourhood of Puebla Museo Galego (Museum of Galicia´s Village) attract you with its unusual combination of Galicia nature and architectonical rests of medioeval monastery. All this is carefully arranged, with view to valley of old town.

So: if you hear somewhere the name of Galicia, I hope that its sets out a place where you can spend without difficulties pleasant time-periods.

Text: Filip Štrobich

Photo: Ondřej Růžička



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