Unpeopled mountain ranges are covered with disintegrated granite boulders. The countryside is decorated with groups of stone granaries „espigueiros“. When you enter some village, the only thing, you could find in a shade of small church, is a group of older men, playing domino. So, this is Peneda-Geres, one of last authentic European countrysides. Cosmopolitan Lisbon or overcrowded Algarve beaches seem to be very distant from here. Despite this fact, you find yourself in the same country. So, Peneda-Geres is really one from nature European paradies.

No great tourist resorts, no buses full of excursionists, the horizons are not disturbed at all. So, the nature dominates there as it was many centuries ago. If you are able to valuate this, local countryside would be encouraged to you. Rough countryside if Peneda-Geres National Park is surrounding north part of Portuguese. Spanish border in places, where frontier line is winding and rising from Minho-river valley into deserted mountains. The nucleus of the park is formed with Serra de Peneda range in north and Serra de Geres in south. The mountain range reminds Czech Giant Mountains, as far as its height is concerned, but with such fact, all other similarities finish. Despite its south position, local climate is rather rough. Violent winds bring a lot of humidity to Atlantic Ocean and, moreover, all mountaneous ridges are missing forests, starting from the altitude of 1100 metres above sea level. So, in higher sections of the park, desert countryside dominates, covered with gigantic granite boulders. Sometimes, even rocky monolithes could be found.

When you descend down the valley in Peneda-Geres, and continue your walk in the forest, all your senses will be pleased. It does not matter, if it would rain duriing your visit there, you recognize quite quickly, that this would be a territory, where their is, at all, no lack of water. The trunks of trees, many centuries old, are overgrown with moss and lichen bunches, the torrents and small rivers are relatively wild, and along the banks, you could see, for sure, inundation traces, left after heavy rains. Moreover, the way, you  would walk ahead, could be river-bed from past. Anyway, there is plenty (surplus) of water, that it is not time enough, to be flown off, and water stream is looking for the other way. So, it could be possible along the path, where some visitor could pass through. The park is interesting from the other part, such as: it is a meeting of Atlantic and Mediterranean zoological animal sorts. The forests are mostly original, it is good luck that any mass wood-cutting was not realized there. As far as the trees are concerned, the oaks dominate, also stone-pines could be found, on the other hand, the eucalyptus copse predominate in lower situated areas. From wild animals, you can meet ther the horses or chamois, even wild cats or lynx are living there.

Nevertheless, even rare Spanish wolf could be seen in this area. Nearly ten thousands of people are living in villages inside territory of this National Park. Frankly speaking, it could be found more remoted countryside in Europe. No traffic is on roads, and in case, if you arrive to main local centres, Caldas do Geres Spa, do not expect anything special. On small square, you can see several sleeping shops, around you can meet several simple lodging houses, and cracked mini-colonnade had better period in past, for sure. As a prove, there are rests of old Roman road, passing trough the mountains in Portela do Honem Pass, where Portuguese-Spanish frontier is to be found. Just close to former custom house, you can find  three old Roman milestones, but you can see more interesting objects, if you follow marked path towards Portuguese part of the hills. This way follows small virgin river, flowing throughout wonderful dense forest, and you arrive, within one hour, to bigger group of ancient „corner-stones“. Some of them are more than two metres high and act as a phantom in dusk among century-years trees.

If you go from Honem Pass in north direction to Spanish part of the frontier, you arrive soon towards open countryside where the forests are missing. You can drive there by car, but it would be more interesting to continue on foot, following the traces of past Roman road. The ways are better marked as in Portugal, and the countryside is more clear. The villages in Peneda-Geres National Park act with an impression that the time stopped there for long. You can mostly admire the groups of stone houses with chapel or small church, and the seat is sometimes surrounded with terrace fields. In such village, small shop and simple caffee could be found, frequently also including boastful name. Just directly in front of the entrance, you can meet pigs or goats. In village green, you can meet small herd of local hairy cattle, incuding their twisted horns. Peculiar type of buildings, which are characteristic for north part of Pyrenee Peninsula, present stone granaries „espingueiros“, which serve for grain or fodder storage. Local buildings´variant has extended ground-plan, situated on stone, approx. one meter high pillars, and its sides have, narrow chinks among separate stone blocks, where the air goes through. Espiguieros were usulally constructed in dry and elevated position, from where the water streams left quickly. So, the buildings  are placed  separately or sometimes in groups, at the edge of the village, on some rocky hillock.

Espigueiros group looks like, following the scene from far distant, as a herd of gigantic stone sheep. The most beautiful groups of such stone granaries are to be found in north part of the park, in communities of Soajo and Lindoso. Each area in this Catholic country has to have thie religious centre, of course. So, in Peneda-Geres, you can find Virgin Mary Shrine of Santujario de Nossa Senhora da Peneda, inside remote valley in the north of national park. Long way along winding road, full of various traps, leads you to places, where the valley is moderately enlarged, and you would be surprised by extended shrine space. It is true that the complex got its actual face within 18th and 19th centuries, but its typical Baroque measures could not be renounced. Entry way, several hundred metres long, bordered with great chapels, leads you to spacious terrace, and just from here, monumental staircase appears, leading you to the church.

Although this seat is placed in remote valley, it is situated in such way, in order to be seen to a distance of many kilometres ahead. Famous Bom Jesus do Monte Church (near to Braga) became a model at building of this sacre district. Anyway, both places are only sixty kilometres distant from each other. Main religious ceremonies in Senhora da Peneda are organized in break of August and September. Pious pilgrims (and in Portugal as well as in Spain there is no lack in this respect) overcome the stages leading towards a church, on knees. If you would prefer, visiting this part of national park, to occupy, except your mind (soul), also your body,so, just behind the church, steep stone path is beginning, leading you upstairs to mountain ridge, where mountain lake is to be found. Along a path, you can see powerful waterfall, and when you go aside a path, you can see the whole shrine area from birds´view.

Text: Denisa Arvajová

Translation: ing. Jan Jonáš

Photo: Picasaweb.com