Climbing: Moravian Karst

It is geographically a very specific area of plateau, located northeast of Brno. In this area there are rare karsts. It is a home to many rare caves and the massive cave complexes tens of kilometers long. Most rock walls on the slopes and valleys are formed by old Devonian limestone. Height of the wall varies by location – you can walls that are 100 meters high or more, but more typical for this area are walls from 20 to 30 meters. Quality limestone also varies from location to location. Most quality limestone is offered in Sloup, or Rudice or Holstejn, while the worst quality rock is located in an area called Zleby.

As for the quality of safety equipment. Here, as in other areas, the more popular the walls have better protection than less popular. More popular areas are triggered by rivets and hook nails to the less visited areas is a good idea to pack your backpack climbing a own equipment (over such roads is to be expected that you might come across on old hooks and loops, whose age and origin is hard to find out).

Moravian Karst is a protected area, so it is necessary to follow certain regulations that strictly define the climbing activity. Climbing activity here is only allowed in certain areas and for limited periods of time. In some areas is year-round climbing permitted. In others, you can only climb from July 15th to December 31st. Not knowing these restrictions is no excuse. It is also necessary to use the designated access routes. “X” mark means no entry, the direction is marked with a triangular arrow. Climbing is permitted only for UIAA members. In all areas is prohibited to camp.

There are 6 climbing areas in Moravian Karst: Zleby, Josefovske Valley, Rudicke Sink, Holstejn, Sloup and rocksin the valley of the Ricka.

Zleby (Pusty and Suchy) are located near Macocha chasm. The name designates a vast valley, stretching from the funicular near the chasm to Skalni Mlyn . There are about 50 rock formations to climb, however, it is permitted to climb on only 10 walls. It is also possible to climb in the most famous chasm in the Czech Republic – Macocha. However, you need a written permission for that. Josefovské valley is famous for its rock called Bull Rock - there are ways that are among the most difficult in the Czech Republic. Bull Rock, along with Raven's are most famous rock climbing sites of the Moravian Karst. The area of Rudice is composed of several rock units near the same village.

In valley at the entrance to Rudice Sink there are two climbing walls, which include roads. There securing form a loop, the age at which we can only guess. Another very popular area is Sloup , as it boasts with a wide range of difficulties - from 3 to 10. Another reason is certainly the best accessibility, since the first rock is located along the path. As in previous areas, there has to be at the easier routes reckon with the fact that the outputs can be very slippy. The most famous tower is called India . It is almost 25 meters high and is well accssible. Additional climbing very important area is Holštejn .Even there the most difficult tracks in the Czech Republic are located (if you hear about success at tracks of difficulty 10 -, 10 nda 10+: Sorcerer’s Apprentice, Castle Niche , Clown’s Grave , Mantis or Glutaman, the climber certainly talks about tracks of Holstejn). The rocks in the river valley are the latest small area where you climb on rocks of difficulty 5. The rocks are hidden in the high beech forest. The height of the walls is different for each rock.

Text/photo: Martina Brožková