China – All Is Well That Ends Well
It was only couple of minutes before the departure. T and P were about to fly back to the Czech Republic. Me and B were ready to travel to Vietnam for another adventure. There was much to remember. T and P looked pretty tired. It is no easy thing to travel across China in one month. Many say they haven’t experienced cultural shock but still China is much different from Europe.
T has never got accustomed to spitting. And when it happened inside public transportation vehicles it co even unsettled even P. They appreciated our tips for finding place in buses. They realized quickly it is very pretty dangerous to sit opposite to small kids (especially boys). Many Chinese don’t wear diapers. They wear just slit trousers. And mother don’t care if their lovely child does it at train station, in a train, in the street or just when sitting opposite to somebody in a bus.
However, I never bought vacuum packed chicken talons instead of chewing gums at the cash register. I even haven’t learned to peel fruits (from peaches to grape s). There is a reason why children learn this tongue-twister: „Chi putao bu tu putaopi “ (吃葡萄不吐葡萄皮, literally meaning„eat grapes and to not to spit out the peel“).
Our Chinese friends didn’t get Czech humor, irony, or dark humor. They are strangers to it. When one of them did something wrong I said: “Well, you did it real good!” He blushed and said: “Wow, thanks!”. Our Chinese lector admires Jara Cimrman because he invented so many useful things!
We have learned a lot. The world is not black and white. Every culture has its advantages as well as disadvantages. But more importantly – every culture has its magic. You can eat rice every day. And not to have strange stares it is better to leave your shoulders covered and keep neckline short. On the other hand your skirt can be no wider than a classic belt (nobody would be surprised at that). Hot water is panacea and noodles made by Chinese Muslims are the best in the world. Nibbled bones can be thrown on the table and to cure hangover the best medicine is overcooked rice with vegetables.
We put so many Chinese teas and books into T and P’s coffers they hardly had any space left to put there their own T-shirts. For the last time we laughed at some Cimmrman jokes to moderate our sadness from say one’s goodbyes. We waved at them with B until they became lost somewhere inside the airport.
We would leave in a while too. There were many surprises to come. There was one more thing we learned in China – sometimes your experience doesn’t have to be pleasant but rather intense. Even we have some reservations about China we still love the country.
Text and photos: Hana Bašová
When I asked some people if the liked Hong Kong nobody could tell me anything particular. They said it was amazing, strong experience, intensive, or wierd. After a wekek spent in one of world's most important harbors. My experience is similar. I can only say that there are many contrasts, paradoxes in Hong Kong and is truly worth visiting.
When me and B were thinking at the airport about all prejudices our Czech friends have, we realized even our Chinese friends’ idea about our culture is not much accurate.
The day had finally come. The day of T’s and P’s departure. The girls were preparing for the departure. Me and B had still some time before we left China. The best moments of our one year stay in China were running in our minds and we also give a thought on T and P. They would surely face many questions regarding China.
I was much more smarter on my second turn in China. And before my first stay in China I had heard many advice by my class mates. “Try not to use handkerchiefs often.” “Don’t stick your chopsticks into the food”.
Even though it seems that the fate wants a boulder to fall on us along the road, the driver managed to deliver us safe and sound. We even managed to take couple pictures as if it was the only chance. During couple of following days we realized that it is impossible to get enough of this place…
The day of our departure from the mountain paradise had come. Luckily, we had whole afternoon at our hands. Therefore, we set off for the last trip. We intended to explore only the nearby area.
In a small family hostel near the Leaping Tiger Gorge (Hutiao xia虎跳峡) we had some good night sleep. After our arrival we headed straight to see the wild Jinsha River 金沙. At its narrowest point, a tiger allegedly leapt over it. We were completely exhausted by a walk in fresh air. However, we woke up soon next day morning to enjoy raising sun at our terrace.
We felt like waking up to mornings in mountains veiled in pleasant haze is hardly something we would get enough of. We had already spent couple of nights at our hostel. At breakfasts we wondered if the locals are still so impressed with the mountains.
Our small trip to waterfall became a nightmare. Ponies that stood across narrow pathway and deep precipice under seemed harmless. Once I got across these obstacles my landlord appeared. With great enthusiasm he instructed us to other waterfalls. As there was only one road heading to our hostel I had to mentally prepare myself to another and another waterfall.
Surprisingly we survived the journey from the Leaping Tiger Gorge to Lijiang 丽江. We were in the town for the second time and nobody was looking forward to it. We got enough of it when we were there couple of days ago. Thanks to my ingenuity we were accommodated next to Lashihai 拉市海. But it was far from spectacular. Partially, the reason was in the fact we hadn’t even seen the historical center of Lijiang. The reason, on the other hand, for tourists to come in the city.
We stepped out of the silent temple in one of Lijiang’s streets and found ourselves immediately among tourist crowds mostly consisting of Chinese. They threw themselves on all delicacies around – from sugar hawthorn to huge baked bones.
Last time I have already started talking about Lashihai lake 拉市海. We intended to see it. The lake is to be found at the foothill of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong xueshan 玉龙雪山) at the altitude of over 2400 meters. The lake’s area is around 5330 hectares. Long time ago, an old horse tea road lead through here. Pu'er tea普洱was very important export commodity. Today, over 60 bird species nest on the lake. More than thirty thousand birds fly here in winter. The best time for observation is December, they say.
Lijiang 丽江, a small town in Yunnan 云南 province is known as a land of clear sky, clean air, and beautiful landscape. Lijiang truly meets this. And it has even something more to it. It is a tourist paradise. When you pay 80 yuan admission to enter the city center only annoying vendors prevent you from exploring the area.
We survived the trip on the Great Wall of China. We liked it but ahead would be waiting pre-departure preparations. We were busy packing, me and B. As it turned out, packing one year worth of life in China to one coffer is far from easy and takes much more than just one afternoon. Therefore, I took T and P to their guest house and left them to take care of themselves.
Our great journey was about to end. But at that moment it still seemed we would travel for couple of more weeks. Imagine a group of four ragged students waiting for a bus while sitting on cobble stone. We were hoping for it to come any minute… Yeah, any minute…
After several weeks on the road we were about to return to Beijing. What a strange feeling it was. B and I felt like we were coming back home even though we lived there only half a year. We took a train from Lijiang 丽江 Kunming 昆明, the capital of Yunnan province 云南. We stayed there for couple of days. Eventually we were even glad we managed to buy flight tickets because it was a last minute buy as we had been waiting for them to become cheaper.
It was easy to count hours before the departure of the girls (and our as well). Still, we intended to utilize them as much as possible regardless the unbearable heat in Beijing.
We managed climbing up the hill very well. We walked through a small village. Some watched us, some obviously had met tourists efore and waved at us. Once we reached a crossroad we suddenly saw its contours. And we also recognized contours of a small shop at the crossroads. It wasn’t overpriced. Surprisingly. We refilled our water and sugar supplies (popsicles). If there exists something like an addiction on popsicles, I was an addict in China.
We gladly left Lijiang 丽江, a small and among tourist popular town in south China. We worried a bit that we would need to return to our hostel on our way back. However, we forget our worries and looked forward to the new adventure.
After all the information we gathered from our friends and teachers about Suzhou 苏州, everybody would look forward to see it! “Up is paradise, below are Suzhou, and Su Chang and Hangzhou" (in Chinese hang you tiantang,
xia you Su-Hang 上有天堂，下有苏杭) we heard when we were mounting green city bikes, and rode through narrow streets near our hotel. The streets were crowded with various stands that lured us to stop (many of them at least). But we didn’t want to miss delicacies of Suzhou.
It hasn’t been so long ago when I boarded the plane to Helsinki. I was thinking how I would spend a night before leaving for Beijing. Suddenly, I realized that my stay in China is coming to an end. It was one of these moments when I felt nostalgia and casted my mind back.
Dali 大理 je belongs to the Pai 白 minority. At the first glimpse you realize the city feels differently than Han 汉 (i.e. ethnic Chinese) cities. Once we accommodated ourselves, we walked in the streets surrounding our hostel. Somehow we managed to find rooms in an area where were no foreign or Chinese tourists. A pleasant change.
When returned to the hostel we were decided to get up early, get on the roof and start the day with a look at Suzhou in the morning 苏州. Right with the alarm clock ringing we started cursing the idea. Because we did not want to be lame in front one of another we get from warm duvets, and headed to the roof.
Christmas is the time of remembrance. One remembers passed year, how and with who she spent Christmas and how it was. I couldn’t help myself from such assessment when I saw grey snowless streets. It remined me of my first Christmas outside home, Christmas in Chengdu 成都.
End of June was about leaves. Since May, my friends had been leaving. Finals were coming and those who didn’t need any confirmation of their study stays and exams passed just packed their luggage and boarded the plane. Other didn’t visit schools because their relatives, and friends arrived. Dormitories emptied.
As I promised myself on my exploration tour to the campus I fulfilled that promise. At the beginning of September I trotted to my future campus.
It wasn’t bad in Beijing. Yet sometimes a time comes that one just want to go somewhere else. Anywhere. The break of the first May was coming and we had already forgotten how crazy it is to travel in China, especially when even others have holidays. But this time we were bit smarter. We learned how to buy train tickets on the Internet.
When we said farewell to Suzhou 苏州, the train took us to the famous Shanghai 上海. Shanghai is the name everybody things of when asked if they can think of a Chinese city. Once it used to be a small fishermen village.
When before the departure from Chengdu I decided to final packing of my things, I found out that I have a lot more than a few things.
This whole story which started in the last article had become one of our most favorite stories. In short, it is about how we went from Chengdu 成都 to Chengdu.
When we boarded the bus in order to move on from the village of Yunnan minorities (Yunnan minzu cun云南民族村) to Dianchi lake滇池without paying ridiculous fees. We didn’t mean it in a wrong way. We were just tired of anyone trying to get any money from us.
We woke up full of enthusiasm on the following day for we would visit a mysterious temple reminding us a bit of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. No single two people agreed upon instructions how to get there on online forums. However, everybody was convinced that no other option how to get into the temple except hers works.
After all struggle we finaly reached Kunming 昆明, the capital of Yunnan 云南, a province in southeast China. My friends told me a lot about Kunming. No wonder that I looked forward to it.
Next day morning, with thick rice cakes filled with delicious filling we attempted for the second time a trek to the Bamboo Temple (Qiongzhusi筇竹寺). To make matters more unpleasant, the sky was clouded and it started to rain. The bus didn’t arrived. So didn’t other buses.
First registration procedure was successfully done. I had a Chinese bank account, submitted about eight passport photos, and other required documents, and while tired I read through the instructions in my room. When I found out that there is a difference between the Chinese and English version, I decided to trust the original, in Chinese.
In couple of articles already I mentioned the same topic – hot water drinking. Since young age I have been frightened to drink hot beverages when ill. It is easier and tastier to use just syrup with water, I had been always saying. And then I left to China.
Standing at a box office in Xichang 西昌 at the train station, we heard why we cannot withdraw them. We could only return them and try to buy new ones that would be for a train that doesn’t travel on the route where the landslide happened. When the lady pointed at the endless line, we wanted to pack our stuff and leave on foot for our next destination, Kunming昆明,. It was very fortunate that we remained standing for a while there.
Dali 大理, a town in south Chinese Yunan 云南, woke us up to cold sunny morning everyday. Unlike hot and busy city this one was a nice change. We had enough space so we didn’t have to jump from bikers, bicyclers transporting all kinds of goods, furious car and bus drivers, and other perils in the streets.
After couple of days in Kunming 昆明 , the time had come to move on from the city of “eternal spring”. Our next goal was Da-li 大理, a much smaller town in the Yunnan province 云南 (like Kunming, Da-li is also the capital of its province).
Finally we were in the bus. We had to pay some yuans extra yet the likelihood of us eventually getting to Xichang 西昌 on time was growing. We had to catch a train going further down south.
Our visit in Lijiang 丽江 in southern China hadn’t started particularly well. My effort to get us to live among the locals was perhaps too much. We were half-an-hour of car ride from the historic center. We couldn’t get to our hostel even by taxi least regular bus. Our landlady was, in truth, not much hospitable. Moreover, it was raining like it was the end of the world.
Our time of departure from Dali 大理 had come. We still liked the place thanks to nice house-lady, her father and their gigantic pup even after several days. We took our backpacks and set off to a bus stop.
Kunming 昆明 woken us up to cloudy sky and light rain drumming into our window. It didn’t seem as if the weather was about to get better. We put our raincoats on and set off to adventure.
Weather got better. Perhaps that turtle we helped on the day before in Yuantong圆通spread the word… Anyway, instead of rain sunrays woke us up. We were eager to eat peculiar rice cakes of thick dough which was baked and filled with strange sweet-salty stuff. We recognize only peanuts and spicy pepper.