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China: SIA-CHE: Labrang Monastery

Published: 14.9.2013
It was already evening and when we left our accommodation and set out to the Labrang monastery. It is one of the six main monasteries of the Gelugpa sect, a Tibet Buddhist sect, known also as “the yellow caps sect.”

Čína: SIA-CHE: klášter Labrang Už byl večer, když jsme opustili naši ubytovnu a vydali se směrem ke klášteru Labrang. Jedná se o jeden ze šesti hlavních klášterů sekty Gelugpa tibetského buddhismu, známé také pod označením „sekta Žlutých čepic“.

Byl založen už na počátku osmnáctého století a v dobách jeho největšího rozkvětu zde žilo více než 4000 mnichů. Dnes tento počet klesl na méně než polovinu, přesto má klášter své nezaměnitelné kouzlo a denně jej navštěvují jak věřící buddhisté z Číny i celého světa, tak turisté.

klášter Labrang

klášter Labrangklášter Labrangklášter Labrang

A takovými turisty jsme nyní byli i my. Největší nápor návštěvníků však už očividně pominul a z celého komplexu byl cítit zvláštní klid a mír. Procházeli jsme nevydlážděnými uličkami mezi domky nalepenými na sebe a zdravili kolemjdoucí mnichy. Vypadali důstojně a tak nějak starobyle (než ovšem ze záhybů svých rouch začali vytahovat nejnovější dotykové mobily). Nikdo po nás dokonce ani nechtěl vstupné, zřejmě už bylo skutečně pozdě. Nerušeně jsme si tedy prohlíželi všechno, na co jsme narazili. Od obyčejných obydlí až po honosné svatyně.

Z jednoho dvora se ozývaly podivné zvuky, a tak jsme potichu nahlédli. Mniši „žlutočepičáři“ utvořili hloučky, vykřikovali a tleskali dotazovanému před obličejem. Inu, svérázná forma zkoušky...

klášter Labrang

Na celý kraj začínala padat tma. Slunce pomalu zapadalo a ozařovalo zlatě zdobené střechy svatyní. Všudypřítomné kočky se vyhřívaly v posledních paprscích, mniši na nás dobromyslně kývali a my odhalovali další a další zákoutí. Byla už tma, když jsme se vraceli na naši ubytovnu, a začínaly padat první dešťové kapky. Ponuré nebe dávalo tušit, že to nebudou kapky poslední, takže jsme měli doopravdy štěstí – jen si představte prašné cesty, když na ně prší celou noc...

klášter Labrang

Na ubytovně panoval čilý ruch. Divocí Tibeťané si ve vedlejším pokoji připíjeli a na nás se dívali celkem nevraživě. Je a majitele obměkčila až ukázka různých měn – české koruny, eura, dolary, zkrátka zbytky, které jsme našli v peněženkách. Zuřivě nad nimi rokovali – nutno říct, že s počty si asi kdysi ve škole hlavu nelámali – a dohadovali se, která má jakou hodnotu. Nakonec nás nechali jít v klidu spát. Netrvalo dlouho a usnuli jsme, jako když nás do vody hodí. A to téměř doslova. Na okna bubnoval déšť a na nás čekalo další dobrodružství.

 klášter Labrang

Text/foto: Hana Bašová



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