Mongolia: Ulanbatar - An Asian Heart

In our past chapter of Siberian trip, we visited Irkutsk and Baikal Lake. Today´s target, Ulanbatar, is 1113 kilometres far-away and the train will surpass such distance within 36 hours of drive. Apart of this, the ticket of the 2nd class costs approx. EUR 180 (another choice is missing). Mongolia is placed in the heart of Asia. It is one of most astonished and untouched territories, extended from impenetrable Siberian forests in the north, up to Chinese Wall at the south.

„Red Hero“, this is the best translation for the word of Ulanbatar. The town got such name in honour of Damdin Suchbatar, national hero. In May 1921, his fighters set free, together with Red Army, the country from terror of White-enemies troops. Nevertheless, the history of this territory is much more older, whereas the first message about the town comes just from 1639, when Bogdgegen, Lama-leader of Tibet Buddhists´ religious group, settled there.

At that time period, the town was known under name of Urga (Main Tent). Great monastery building was a dominanta. A community started slowly to be spreaded there, becoming an important administrative centre of the whole area of Internal Mongolia, also owing to its strategic position, placed in the neighbourhood of Russia and China. In 1911, a Mongolian State was declared, under strong support of Russia. However, shortly afterthat, the territory was conquested again and found itself under Chinese supremacy. Ten years later, after the first independence declaration, the town was transferred, after bloody struggles, to Russian part. And just Suchbatar, hero of these fights, participated in active way on such actions, together with Red Army soldiers. Since 1924, the town obtained its name after him. Mongolia became definitively a People´s Republic. Anyway, at that time period, the metropolis was mostly heterogenous configuration of yurt-tents and clay-houses as busy metropolis. On the other hand, the town is characteristic with its Buddhists´ churches with golden towers. Such buildings became thorn in a side of revolutionary and atheistic Bolshewiks. Since old times, the town belonged, despite its evident modesty, to important trade crossroads. So, standard of life increased slowly in the process of time. Nevertheless, Russian infuence was formed in Ulanbatar. New dwelling houses and factory complexes were constructed, and the town was identical, from urbanistic point of view, with neighbouring Russian localities. As a top, it was main Peace Boulevard, (axis of the town), the seat of Ministeries, administrative offices and all main important institutions of  the capital.

Today´s actual face of Ulanbatar is characterized with gigantic historical spring, made during past one hundred years. Now, it is curious mixture of factories, made from concrete, monotonous cracked dwelling-panel houses, new inhabitated buildings, old churches and traditional places for yurta-tents constructions. Even Suchbatar memorial was erected there. The body of hero-leader is buried in the neighbouring Mausoleum. During the 2nd World War, the education centre, in a form of University quarter, was established there, and the culture blew, including all imaginable references to history, in a form of museums or monuments of still proud Mongolian Nation. As an undivisible part of such development, it was even massif industrial construction of factory complexes, including shoe-making, foodstuffs industry and, first of all, textile (cashmere) or leather-making industries.

In capital Ulanbatar, nearly a half of total inhabitants´ number is living. The country has the extention of 1 564 116 square kilometres, it is so extensive as practically the whole West Europe. Nevertheless, hardly anybody would expect that Ulanbatar would be, owing to its position, the coldest capital of the world, with very rough continental climate, which could be, (with its relatively south position and not so extreme altitude of 1300 metres above sea level, where the mountain peaks, surrounding the town, are exceeding two thousand metres), rather unexpected. However, main problem of today´s town is the alcoholism, except rough climatic conditions, lack of drinking water and limited number for working chances.

From old times, nomadic wandering is Mongolian profession No. 1. The yurt-tents, including cattle herds, are to be found in town-environs. On the other hand, rather interesting view at metropolis, is available from top of dilapidated DZAYSAN  Revolution Monument and International Friendship with Soviet Union, situated on a hill close to the city. As far as Ulanbatar sightseeings are to be visited, three or four days are fully sufficient. As main tourist attraction, it is Gandan (Gangantegcinlen chid) Buddhist Monastery. It is one of former town´s monasteries which served as a residence during visits of Dalaylama. Here, there were effected religious rites (as in the only Mongolian church) even during Socialism era. All old manuscripts as well as other church objects from monasteries, destroyed by Communists, were concentrated there. Another places of interest, which are worth to visit, it is Dascoylin Monastery and Geser Church. If you have the intention to travel to these regions, you have to be patient and tolerant to local services and people. You can meet typical Russian temper as any other Asian efforts – all things have their time for execution, and it could be your problem, if you are of an opinion that someting would not function according to your original ideas. It is true that the Mongolians have a democracy but, first of all, laziness is prevailing there. In the town, a calm character of typical Mongolian countryside as well as busy life of Chinese metropolis are missing. So, rather tediousmness (spleen) is predominating. It would be advantageous to leave the town and go the the countryside, by means of jeep motor vehicle, or better, on horseback - as this is most typical and most national way of transport there, into a world of endless wide plain-lands. Regarding boarding and accommodation: these are relatively low, but you have to take into consideration that a ride on horseback could be calculated according to tourist´s pricelist, and cannot be taken for any generosity or bigscality of local people…

Ulanbatar is good starting point for trips to the south, into Gobi Desert, looking for secret Olgoy Chorchoy, or to Tibet table-lands, across grassy plains of east Mongolia, or to the west, in direction to Altay Mountain Range. North part of Mongolia is afforested with taiga, whereas west part is mountaneous, and in the south, Gobi Desert is spreaded. On the other hand, western part of the country is covered with endless steppes. The average altitude is rather high (1500 metres), indicating great temperature differences between summer and winter, day and night but also unexpected weather changes. So, as an example, one day could be sunny with temperature of 30 °C, followed by the next one with cloudy weather and 10 °C only. Mongolia´s climate is very dry so that it could be sunny but also very dusty. So, if you chose Mongolia as a target of your journey, you must leave the idea that you can see and visit all places of interest. It is impossible, owing to the extent of the country, small number of inhabitants and minimally developped road nests. Most of roads are dusty ways. Bus transport is functionning but most of time tables are unvalid. Regarding train transport, it is nearly missing, and train connection to Peking, following local nature, is not attractive. So, as the only reasonable matter, it could be rent of terrain jeep motor vehicle with a driver. This service is rather expensive but it is worth to effect it, from safety point of view, and it is preferred more as individual travelling. It is good luck that Czech Embassy has its seat in Ulanbatar, so it would be reasonable to contact it with any questions or problems.

Text: Jan Chaloupka

Translation: ing. Jan Jonáš

Photo: Wikipedia Commons: vše Brücke-Osteuropa (č.1, č.2, č.3, č.4, č.6)