Nepal VI: Pleasant Encounter
There was a fourth day trek around eight-thousand Manaslu. This beautiful mountain was still far away. I didn’t feel happy to leave the village Dobhan, which I liked so much. Limited by time but we could not stay longer, so we had to continue.
Permit to the National Park had been built on the exact date and we had to occur at the beginning of time. Walking was not very pleasant because it was again almost unbearable heat. Directly to us sun shined. We enjoyed, when we will climb to colder areas.
For lunch we stopped in the village Yaru and we have put bhat (rice with vegetables). Our guide Hari helped with the cooking, which is his hobby, and well versed in it. The kitchen was open and we are thus able to follow the procedure of preparation of food. The fire dried mutton and next to a wooden wall with wonderful valerian eats hay. Besides him there were plenty of other domestic animals. Especially chickens and ducks with their little ones and another small goat, which was just led to the slaughter.
Fireplace was, as elsewhere, inside the cottage. Here at least one wall of the kitchen was missing, so the smoke could easily go out. Elsewhere fireplace was inside the room where the only doors and windows, and smoke accumulated there. Chimneys there were still nowhere to be seen. In some villages we felt like we were in Europe during the Middle Ages.
Next to the fireplace with a metal pot holder was the mat on which food is prepared for cooking and frying. Hari offered us a taste of mutton. With Zuzka we refused because it is generally recommended not to eat meat on trek. They have no way of cooling here and could therefore be spoiled. Milan can still put a little bit. Tasted it and nothing had been after him. Milan has but duck stomach and is therefore not representative of food safety assessment. Then we Hari even offered a piece of cheese. This time I tasted and I, because I love cheese. It was excellent. Unfortunately, this little piece was an exception and nowhere else on the trek, we have already met with cheese, not counting the little that we in the mountains to the Nepalese bake on Tibetan bread.
From Yar to Jagat the journey lasted less than two hours, and turns in it stretches down the hill into the home stretch. We passed a sign that we announced that we are entering into the Manaslu Conservation Area. At Jagat we stayed in yet luxurious balcony of our journey and went to the office to register. Here, we have flyers on the bulletin board learned that trek around Manaslu currently visiting some 2 000 tourists per year. Last season they went through here around 1000. On the board was also a leaflet informing about the activities of the local Association of Mothers. On the poster were pictures of animals that live here. The figure looked down at us snow leopard, brown bear, chamois and many species of birds.
That day we had lots of time, we decided that we go through the village or for her. We said that to Hari and yet we had originally intended to go alone, he took it as a task for us to arrange a suitable alternative afternoon excursion. He began to actively ask questions of local and even those of us in a while Hari led somewhere in the backyard. They showed us that we have to climb over the fence and go way up, apparently for some very nice view from where you can see in good weather and Manaslu. Although the climb was quite steep, but without our heavy backpacks, we felt like we could fly. Already on the way we unfortunately found that the general views are not, because all the surrounding mountains are in cloud. Too didn’t care too much because even without it, the trip was pleasant change.
When we came back down, waiting for us a very pleasant meeting with Czech group of five, which consisted of older people compared to us (and mostly in their sixties), but who apparently were probably experienced mountaineers (from the Himalayas). Very nice, we talk with them. Some of them have their way, despite their health problems, e. g. lady, who went to the trek, despite her arthritis. Then we really admired her. She said that when he was the first time (that they were about fifty), so he too bore all things for yourself. Now, they had the carriers. We got several good tips on bargaining and prevention of mountain sickness (much to drink and pee a lot). Overall, it was really nice meeting, which, though short, a person can add a lot of energy and motivation.
Text/photo: Kristýna Bartůňková
Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. However, it attracts a constant flow of tourists. Are you one of them? If so, your first stop will most likely be Kathmandu, the main and also the largest city of the Nepalese Democratic Republic. Immediately after leaving the airport hall, prepare for a large number of people in a small space, raiding cars, street full of taxi drivers, street vendors, and smog.
Last trip in Nepal took us to Bakthapur, where we had break on the way from a two-day trek in Shivapuri National Park back to Kathmandu. It is a city (like a suburb of Kathmandu), which is part of the World Heritage List.
After a relaxing day, in Kathmandu spent especially by shopping of different scarves, beads, clothing and more, we went on a three-day trip to the not too distant mountains to the north. The day before departure, we had the desire to buy a seat reservation at the bus station, but we weren´t successfull.
The second day after leaving the five thousand high saddle, we considered as the most difficult part of the journey. It started with no breakfast, which almost could not eat. Apple pie was still quite good, but the pudding, which was to be involved and who brought us next to the bowl, it was almost inedible. Another course, chocolate pudding tasted like hot chocolate because it was not at all th
After climbing to the saddle, the highest point of our journey, we declined to Bimtang village and there spent the night. The next day long descent waited for us and overcoming long distances, so it was advisable to set off quite early. In the morning Hari annoyed us, because he walked around and looked significantly at his watch, as we already should leave.
The peak of our journey around Manaslu we left behind. Now if only we had way down and it was much worse than the previous climb. We had to go down is infinitely long and steep downhill. The road was covered with stones and gravel, so it was necessary to look under the feet, to don’t slip on the wrong terrain. Soon we got bored and more over we were finishing the water.
After two and a half days in the village Samdo we had to, though quite reluctant, leave and go to Dharamsala, which is the last stop before the saddle. Due to my cold I went quite slowly and Zuzka with Milan adapted me, but I think, they didn't mind. We left the crowds of tourists to pass us and then we felt more relaxed.
The peak of our trek came on and we found ourselves at an altitude of nearly four kilometres altitude. Village Samdo therefore has become our habitat for the next two days, which we wanted to spend with acclimatizing.
Samagoan village lies at an altitude of three and a half thousand meters and became the place from which we decided to go to the first acclimatization trip.
A trip to a Buddhist Monastery in Lho, where we attended a ceremony of prayer by using music, was really successful. When we went down in a good mood, ate ordered breakfast and because we refrain longer in the monastery longer than originally planned, we had also a lunch. About 12.30 pm we went to Samagoan village (3530 m a. s. l.).
After a night spent in the loggia in the village Ghap we should go for long trip and therefore we got up early. On the way back was a lot of the sacred mani. Sometimes we met a poor Nepalese children and Zuzana gave to some of them the pens. We met first yak caravan and dzopke, carrying its cargo from Tibet. Dzopke is a cross between a cow and a yak.
Sixth day of our trek, we got up at six o'clock in the morning and after perfecting Tibetan pancakes, we set off at seven. Soon we came to Deng, the village, which should be our rest house, and had the tea there on the unfinished balcony.
In the morning after the first night spent in the National Park Manaslu, we said good bye to compatriots and started on our way. The path before us ran great many small and large lizards. In one village we passed, we saw the last banana tree, that hasn't grown higher.
On the departure day trek around Manaslu we have with our guide Hari met at the bus station. Hari is 38 years old and nationalities Gurung. Although I read that these people live mainly in the Annapurna area, Hari said that his native village is situated in the Everest.
Entry point to trek around eight-thousand high Manaslu is the village called Agurhat. We arrived here after a strenuous journey by bus was dark and we had some time to look for accommodation. The first place where we asked was already full, but we soon got free room in a small hotel (loggia) and could be accommodated.
After a hot and almost sleepless night in tents in the village Lidingö we were both broken, but not be helped - we had to go on. March of the previous day was relatively easy, but now the terrain has changed and has become quite demanding, because continually alternated steep climb with a steep descent, with an overall prevalence of climb, mostly on the stairs.
The journey from Prague to Kathmandu was quite lengthy and tedious. First, we had two long transfers, and secondly we had to undergo in Delhi incredible safety procedures.
One March day we were with friends roamed the Ore Mountains, and in talking about everything was his turn to our favourite topic - travel. I am very sorry that I can this year due to various obligations set out on a long journey.