» Sweden, Between Göteborg and Stockholm II. – Deep into the North
Sweden, Between Göteborg and Stockholm II. – Deep into the North
We commenced the hiking part of our Swedish journey “deep in the north”. It was in the territory of Bohuslän which is eleven hours from Göteborg. Prices are same in Sweden as in the Czech republic. Nominally, at least. The most expensive part of our journey is travelling itself (had you your own food from the Czech Republic). However, there are many train and bus lines in the country.
Stream of water and pasture with cows separated the train station from Bohus castle (Bohus Fästning). Only huge highway disturbed the image of peace. It is the only obstacle when one wants to climb to the 14th century stronghold, in Kungälv village. You can pay by Visa or MasterCard in a bus. Two kilometers would cost us 40 SEK (according to us the cheapest rate for a ride between the places). One Swedish driver took a pity on us. She gave us a lift and she needed only one “tack”, or “thank you”.
A 370-km long tourist trail Bohusleden starts at the ruin. Orange strips on wooden stakes guide travelers from Blåvättnerna to Strömstad. We let ourselves to be guided through thick peg forest when we were trying to find a place to camp for the night. We got at „Hålta kyrkogård“ cemetery. The cemetery is fascinating for its large area and how well maintained it is. For us it is place where we learned how the Swedes honor their dead. However, it was difficult to recognize where the cemetery starts or end and we still don’t know today if we slept on the territory of the dead or the living. Merry voices of some Swedes who passed by us in the morning calmed our worries. They talked to us even they didn’t understand us. Everything seems alright in Sweden.
Here I would like to explain the Allemansrätt law or the free movement in nature law. Thanks to this law one can even step on private land. Also people can build tents anywhere except for agricultural land or near a house (only when agreed by the owner). The Swedes know this law however they recommend to not to stay more than one or two nights over.
Later we joined the distance route between the towns of Ljungskile (there I left for someone Citadel by Exupery with a written dedication) and Uddevalla. The blue route between the cities is 45 kilometers long. We built our tents at public coast bathing area. Families and their children, truly thrilled about water despite their lips turning blue, swarmed in with the first sun rays.
We also had our first major realization. Swedish conception of distance is absolutely different. In the morning, one man assured us it is only 15 kilometers to Uddevalla. Another man, after exhausting journey, assured us it is mere fifteen kilometers to Udevalla (in Hunneberg forests it happened to us that on every second kilometer we encountered a board suggesting only 10 kilometers was left to our destination). Fortunately, his son gave us a lift to the nearest bus stop. So we rode the endless kilometers on bikes.
Uddevalla is in Västra Götaland region. The city is the industrial center of the west coast. You can travel by boat form the city center Gustafsberg cliff for a small fee. There are beautiful wooden villas, a small green spot where you can bath. Coast cliffs are lined by a suspended bridge, like a snake, which further enhances the scenery. The boat sails back after an hour. It anchors at the visitor center.
Salty experience would be replaced by the woods and wild nature of Sweden - concretely Halle-Hunneberg ecopark where live bears, elks, and little biting flies.
GPS: (Uddevalla) 58°20'58.8"N 11°56'09.3"E
Text and photo: Ester Dobiášová
We are in a camp near Stockholm. We set off for a walkthrough in the city yet first we make a stop at Vasa Museum.
We begin with a tour in Domkyrkan, a Lutheran church which was destroyed by fire two times. The first cathedral was constructed between 1624–1627. The church was consecrated in 1633. Unfortunately, on the night of April 15 1721 a huge fire broke out. 211 buildings from the surrounding area were destroyed. Many people died as well. Consequently, there was a search for a suitable area which would serve cemetery. Eventually, the cemetery was constructed in the park adjacent to the cathedral. Over 20 thousand bodies were laid there.
Together we go to Götaplatsen square. The city is very quiet. We encounter almost no one. The rain stopped. However, wind still blowed unpleasantly strong. Slowly we approach an interesting statue. It is a revolver with twisted barrel. It was made by one of the foremost personas of modern Swedish art – the sculptor and painter Carl Fredrik Reuterswärd. This artist lived in the US for a while. In the 1980, the shock of the shooting and consequent death of John Lennon inspired him to create this statue which he calls Non Violence. The original one is situated in front of the OSN HQ in New York. Another clones you can find in Berlin, or in the Swedish cities of Stockholm, Malmö, Lund, and Boras, or in Caen, France and Kirchberg, Luxemburg.
Today we begin our new series on Nordic cities. For following 11 Saturdays we tell you where the traveller Magdalena Radostova went and what saw there.
For the first time after thirteen nights in the tent we wrapped a blanket around ourselves. Me and Dominika got at a farm south from Norrköping. For ten days we worked there in exchange for food and shelter.
Last days of travels with Dominika we spent at the city of
Örebro, the history of which dates back to the 15th century.
While travelling along coastal trail from Ljungskile to Uddevalla, we saw Halle-Hunneberg forests, Västergötland region. It was tiresome to carry heavy backpacks which in turn didn’t bring us much joy when travelling. Therefore, we left them at a visitors’ center.
Eighteen kilogram backpack on our backs were bent me and Dominika down at a station. We were looking forward to Swedish dream, a month worth of travelling on our own. A yellow bus was the means of our transport from Brno to Göteborg. After almost 20 hours of comfortable ride we got off the bus to see seagulls, ferry two ferry boats and cranes idling at the port. Visitor centers were buoys giving us always necessary information in the Swede’s second largest city. The first thing we actually did there was a visit at one such a center. Maps, leaflets, information – this is tourist’s fodder. One even doesn’t realize how remote is the land he trod on. Especially when passersby smile at him/her when he/she asks for directions. The smiles were still there regardless where we were.
You can literally cross a bridge from Copenhagen, Denmark to Sweden. But it is quite a long bridge. One may think both cities would be similar due to small distance separating them but you couldn’t be more wrong. Malmö has different feeling – it is calmer, more monumental, and more adult. You will feel its industrial history as well as present high-tech direction.
One of the most important Swedish cities is located on the shore of the Baltic Sea – it is Malmö a pulsing artery of Scandinavia, an unusual Swedish city with Danish influence or just a pile of gravel, as locals like to call it.
Uppsala is one of the largest and most important cities in Sweden. Some interesting things about the city will be revealed in the following article.
After we enjoyed walks in Finnish towns of Kuopio and Rovaniemi, we set off to explore another Scandinavian country. This time Sweden, or rather the Kingdom of Sweden.
Scandinavia is extended on a peninsula of the same name in the North of Europe. It is also known as a country of elks, trolls, fjords, high mountains, endless plains or a seat of Santa Claus.This area has, as a consequence of its position, more colder climate and heterogenous countryside, rather few inhabitated (colonized).
The Kingdom of Sweden, most extensive Scandinavian country, is situated on surface of 449 964 square kilometres and belongs to greatest states of Europe. Sweden temptates millions of visitors, thanks to its marvellous and diverse nature or interesting architecture, especially for the fact that even during tourist saison, the calm.dominates and no busy life is prevailing there.
Stockholm belongs synonymously to most beautiful and most green metropolis of the Europe. The lovers of history and arts will be surprised at existence of more that 100 museums, dedicated really to all subjects which would occur to you.
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One can say Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, and Malmö, Sweden, would be similar cities becaus...