Nepal XVIII: The Final
Last trip in Nepal took us to Bakthapur, where we had break on the way from a two-day trek in Shivapuri National Park back to Kathmandu. It is a city (like a suburb of Kathmandu), which is part of the World Heritage List.
It consists of many squares, on which there is also a large number of palaces, shrines and other historical monuments. Entering the city we faced throughout 1100 rupees! After lunch we did a short tour, during which we shared Bakthapur a lot of other tourists and went to Kathmandu. There we waited one more day walking around town and then heading home. Journey to Prague was challenging. At the airport we Nepalese have undergone numerous treatments searching luggage and ours. We flew back through Delhi, where we spent the whole day this time. While Sue and Milan went through town, I was lying in a hotel room and tried to get from an illness that my second trek began to torment. Early morning or rather late, we had to take a taxi to the airport where we flew to Moscow and Prague.
Nepal has left us in a lot of impressions. It's a beautiful country with beautiful mountains that combines great natural wealth and poverty of the people. I think every time I get home feeling that I lack something or I'll worry about that I can´t, I think of wretches, who took over garbage in Kathmandu on the water and on land or on those who sold their goods in centre of the passing cars and buses and breathed their poisonous fumes against them we saved our mouth.
Likewise, but I remember the happy mountaineers in the Himalayas, who lived, although poor, but happy in their huts, and lived from day to day hard work of porters, herders and farmers. And these people want more when they see the rich tourists who pass them around. It is therefore welcome and builds them a new balcony and new and offers an increasingly greater range of services. I do not blame them, but I'm sorry but what with the expansion of tourism in the Nepalese Himalayas expires. It is the local culture and mores that with the influx of people from abroad and local disruption of peace is bound to change.
I have to say we were lucky because we decided to trek, which is not frequented by tourists so often such as Annapurna, Everest or Langtang. Even so, the number of visitors is rapidly increasing. Last year there were 2,000 tourists, while the year before there was only one thousand. We can expect that in a few years, this number multiplied by the arrival yet. Maybe even closer to 88 thousand people visited last year trek around Annapurna. Even so, I believe that Nepal visit is definitely worth it and I think that there can also be found places where natural or cultural landscape hand yet does not interfere with the tourist market. And so I hope to have sometime in the near future to Nepal again and look at these places I can personally identify.
Text/photo: Kristýna Bartůňková
One March day we were with friends roamed the Ore Mountains, and in talking about everything was his turn to our favourite topic - travel. I am very sorry that I can this year due to various obligations set out on a long journey.
The journey from Prague to Kathmandu was quite lengthy and tedious. First, we had two long transfers, and secondly we had to undergo in Delhi incredible safety procedures.
On the departure day trek around Manaslu we have with our guide Hari met at the bus station. Hari is 38 years old and nationalities Gurung. Although I read that these people live mainly in the Annapurna area, Hari said that his native village is situated in the Everest.
Entry point to trek around eight-thousand high Manaslu is the village called Agurhat. We arrived here after a strenuous journey by bus was dark and we had some time to look for accommodation. The first place where we asked was already full, but we soon got free room in a small hotel (loggia) and could be accommodated.
After a hot and almost sleepless night in tents in the village Lidingö we were both broken, but not be helped - we had to go on. March of the previous day was relatively easy, but now the terrain has changed and has become quite demanding, because continually alternated steep climb with a steep descent, with an overall prevalence of climb, mostly on the stairs.
There was a fourth day trek around eight-thousand Manaslu. This beautiful mountain was still far away. I didn’t feel happy to leave the village Dobhan, which I liked so much. Limited by time but we could not stay longer, so we had to continue.
In the morning after the first night spent in the National Park Manaslu, we said good bye to compatriots and started on our way. The path before us ran great many small and large lizards. In one village we passed, we saw the last banana tree, that hasn't grown higher.
Sixth day of our trek, we got up at six o'clock in the morning and after perfecting Tibetan pancakes, we set off at seven. Soon we came to Deng, the village, which should be our rest house, and had the tea there on the unfinished balcony.
After a night spent in the loggia in the village Ghap we should go for long trip and therefore we got up early. On the way back was a lot of the sacred mani. Sometimes we met a poor Nepalese children and Zuzana gave to some of them the pens. We met first yak caravan and dzopke, carrying its cargo from Tibet. Dzopke is a cross between a cow and a yak.
A trip to a Buddhist Monastery in Lho, where we attended a ceremony of prayer by using music, was really successful. When we went down in a good mood, ate ordered breakfast and because we refrain longer in the monastery longer than originally planned, we had also a lunch. About 12.30 pm we went to Samagoan village (3530 m a. s. l.).
Samagoan village lies at an altitude of three and a half thousand meters and became the place from which we decided to go to the first acclimatization trip.
The peak of our trek came on and we found ourselves at an altitude of nearly four kilometres altitude. Village Samdo therefore has become our habitat for the next two days, which we wanted to spend with acclimatizing.
After two and a half days in the village Samdo we had to, though quite reluctant, leave and go to Dharamsala, which is the last stop before the saddle. Due to my cold I went quite slowly and Zuzka with Milan adapted me, but I think, they didn't mind. We left the crowds of tourists to pass us and then we felt more relaxed.
The peak of our journey around Manaslu we left behind. Now if only we had way down and it was much worse than the previous climb. We had to go down is infinitely long and steep downhill. The road was covered with stones and gravel, so it was necessary to look under the feet, to don’t slip on the wrong terrain. Soon we got bored and more over we were finishing the water.
After climbing to the saddle, the highest point of our journey, we declined to Bimtang village and there spent the night. The next day long descent waited for us and overcoming long distances, so it was advisable to set off quite early. In the morning Hari annoyed us, because he walked around and looked significantly at his watch, as we already should leave.
The second day after leaving the five thousand high saddle, we considered as the most difficult part of the journey. It started with no breakfast, which almost could not eat. Apple pie was still quite good, but the pudding, which was to be involved and who brought us next to the bowl, it was almost inedible. Another course, chocolate pudding tasted like hot chocolate because it was not at all th